Marrakech: the Red City

Where do I begin?! There are so many things that I’d like to share about my trip and … unfortunately, so little time and space! I loved having the privilege of attending the Design Leadership Summit in such a truly fascinating city. I came back feeling so inspired and refreshed not only by a city that places such value on quality craftsmanship, but also by the many talented individuals that share my passion for good design.

A little insight to Marrakech: Referred to as the “Red City,” Marrakech was once a fortress city and its great walls were a symbol of the city’s power. Still to this day, Marrakech is a city that has preserved century-old traditions and cultural beliefs. As a result, the people of Marrakech are quite superstitious. In fact, the design of many buildings incorporate small doors and walled courtyards, which are believed to keep the genies and evil spirits out. In order to draw the eyes upward as a means of focusing on heavenly things, it is common for the ceilings to be the most heavily adorned part of a structure; an element of architecture that is too often overlooked in design today.

While I was there, I shared a suite at the Four Seasons Marrakech with two design friends. With its 40 acres of lush gardens and fountain courtyards, and friendly service, it was the perfect venue for the Summit Conference / Girls’ slumber party! We thoroughly enjoyed being greeted with a glass of mint tea (a Moroccan specialty) upon our arrival. And speaking of specialties… There were beautiful roses growing and on display all over Marrakech!

Another fabulous hotel in Marrakech is La Mamounia and although I didn’t get to stay there, I did get a chance to visit it one evening. This palace-turned-hotel is just as luxurious as I had heard. After reopening just a couple of years ago, La Mamounia is a property that is almost completely hand-crafted by local artisans. The carved plaster walls, forged lanterns and tile work were exquisite. I can’t begin to imagine the number of craftsmen hours that went into the detail work.

Some of you might be familiar with Maryam Montague’s My Marrakesh blog, and if you’re not, be sure to check it out. Between being a photographer, interior designer, design blogger, shop owner, writer and hotelier- you’ve probably unknowingly stumbled upon her or her work at some point. Interestingly enough, Maryam and her architect husband moved their family to Marrakech several years ago and began building what is now a boutique guesthouse called Peacock Pavilions. The B&B is eco-friendly and the interiors, which are absolutely stunning, were designed by Maryam herself! All this to say- Maryam knows quite a bit about Moroccan tradition and design. I think what I gathered most from what Maryam taught us is that every aspect of Moroccan design and craftsmanship has reason and meaning behind it. Whether it be the symbolism of a particular pattern or the pride artisans take in their craft, there is an overwhelming sense of age-old significance in the design community. In was incredibly refreshing to be exposed to such intentional and soulful design!

There are three pattern types that are seen throughout Marrakech and each is symbolic of different aspects of Moroccan culture. Geometric patterns are the most popular and often incorporate small cutout shapes in the tile or plaster so that the sunlight can add to the intricacies of the design. The second type is floral patterns. The floral detailing is fascinating and has the appearance of the most delicate lace. The third type of pattern is calligraphy. It often imitates the script of the Qur’an, and is used primarily in religious architecture. This scripted style typically used on higher portions of architecture (because of its connection to the heavens) and it is quite formal.

During our tour of the city, we got the opportunity to see two particularly fascinating landmarks. The first is a religious school called Ben Youssef Medersa that was founded in the 14th century. However, shortly after the institution was founded, the Saadian rulers remodeled the building into the architectural wonder that remains today. The medersa centers around a large courtyard with a central pool used for ritual hand and feet washing. The surrounding buildings are heavily decorated with carved cedar wood, exquisite stucco work, Arabic inscriptions and colorful tiling. Again, the attention to detail and pride in craftsmanship was obvious. Our guide mentioned that the young men that studied religion here were unable to leave the building from the time they entered until they graduated (typically from 4-8 years)! Its a good thing it was so lovely!

Not far from the school are the Saadian Tombs, which are made up of two mausoleums that closely resemble the design work seen at Ben Youssef. Historians think the similarities indicate that the structures were built around the same time and under the same ruler. In the 1700s the burial grounds were sealed up and remained unopened until 1917 when they were discovered during a French aerial survey. With over 166 coffins in and around the mausoleums, the Tombs are a sight to see! Not surprisingly, the royal status of those buried at Saadian Tombs is indicated by the amount of decoration and adornment seen on their coffin. Did I mention that each individual piece of tile is handmade?

Marrakech is a city known for its lush gardens and vivid colors. No place better represents that sentiment than the Majorelle Gardens. These botanical gardens were designed by French artist Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s. The estate was bought by Yves Saint Laurent in 1980 and still houses the designer’s private art collection. I loved the striking cobalt blue color of the buildings paired with yellow accents and the flowering greenery.

Shopping in the Soukes of Marrakech is an experience all on its own! The stalls and stalls of embroidered leather slippers, woven kaftans, beaded necklaces, exotic spices and tasty pastries were total sensory overload (in a good way, of course)! And while I wasn’t the best at bargaining, it was fun to watch my friends work their magic!

The last night of my Moroccan adventure was spent at a party hosted by the DLS conference in the middle of the desert! Yes… the DESERT! We loaded up in all-terrain SUVs and headed to our unknown destination. Almost two hours later, rush hour traffic (including scooters, donkey drawn carriages, and a lot of diesel fumes), and a little concern for safety, our driver (who did not speak any English) finally delivered us to the middle of the star studded desert ! It was quite site and evening! There were Persian rugs and gas lanterns lining the paths and dining area. Linen covered tables and chairs were arranged for us to dinning, and low couches created a cozy atmosphere for chatting. There was a lot of entertainment including musicians, flame throwers, henna tattoos (I got a small one on my hand) and photo ops with a few camels. That night was surreal to say the least, and one I certainly will not forget!

My Marrakech experience was all about layered pattern, light, hand-carvings, detailing, craftsmanship, plasterwork, vivid color pallets, superstition, aromas (not all good!), hidden courtyards, and adventure……Four days was barely enough time to scratch the surface of this culturally rich city! I highly recommend a visit, and be sure to stay longer!

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